Hida Takayama

The last weekend in January, we headed back into the mountains--this time with our friends the Millers--to find some more snow and Japanese culture in the town of Hida Takayama. (Takayama means "tall mountain" and Hida distinguishes it from other Takayamas). It's known as "little Kyoto" for its quaint history and because its carpenters were thought to have constructed many buildings in Kyoto, including the Imperial Palace and many temples. No, they were not made of snow like this one pictured. (If they were, they couldn't have burnt down 10 times each, like most structures in Japan have.)

Takayama is also known for its local foods, including sansai (mountain vegetables), wasakana (river fish), Hida beef, Hida beer, and sake. After our six-hour, three-train journey, Sydney finally fell asleep in the stroller as we walked from our hotel to Suzuya, a popular restaurant recommended by my guidebook. After waking her up (Brian tried two other attempts before this, the most extreme one), we enjoyed some local specialties: Hida beer, Hida beef, and Hoba miso (fermented soybean paste grilled on a magnolia leaf on top of a unique hibachi).

Some of us enjoyed the dinner more than others. Actually, some downright needed to be contained at one point.

After dinner, again we enjoyed a very relaxing Japanese hot soak at our hotel before bed (thankfully not a futon). And the next morning we set out to see Hida No Sato, an open air museum displaying massive farmhouses with their steep, thatched roofs, which look like praying hands ("gassho-zukuri"). The houses were moved in 1971 from the nearby Shirakawa-go region to recreate a folk village, dating from the 1600-1800's. They were originally built to support large volumes of snow and ice on the roofs.

Sydney, always angling for junkfood, is likely wondering why an icicle couldn't taste more like a popsicle. But she couldn't say so since her lips were stuck to it. Alas, it was only for a moment.


While Sydney plays in the snow, Miranda, Brian and I warm ourselves by the fire. I myself wouldn't have minded a marshmallow or two, but there was no time for that...we had only until 15:30 before we were to board the train home. So, we settled for a quick can of hot cocoa.

After all, we were taken off guard--and chilled to the bone--by the 15-minute blizzard that suddenly blurred its way through the village. It was fun to see the snow in action, but we were all relieved it was short-lived.

Blue skies broke and we went to the center of town to enjoy Nijuyokka-ichi, a fair held on the 24th day of January every year since 1872. It flurried on and off while we mostly ate our way down this main street. But there were also handmade crafts such as “Shouke“ (bamboo maunds), “Amigasa”(braided hats), and “Oke”(wooden pails), which are made by nearby farmers. (This photo shows grilled rice patties on a stick that were smothered with a miso/sesame paste. Yum!)


We veered off the festival street to see some interesting, typical homes and shops. The quaint streets have tiny canals running under the front of the buildings for snow and ice drainage into the river.







A winter trip to Takayama wouldn't be complete with a visit to a sake brewery, which are only open mid-January through February for tours...or should I say tastes for English-speakers, since we weren't able to glean much else from the Japanese tour. But taste is what's important anyway. The large hanging ball above the entrance is called a sugidama and it is made of needles from the Japanese cedar. It is a symbol of sake breweries, since in years past, sake was ready in the early spring, after brewing all winter. The needles start out green and slowly turn to brown, signifying the slow maturation of sake. Thus, when the needles are brown, the sake is ready to drink.

And when the sake is drunk, it is time to go. Well, it was for us at least. It was a very unique charming town that we could've used another day to explore. But I'm not sure we could've weathered the cold any longer anyway.

Norwoods in Nagano

Miranda put the M in MWR as the unofficial mascot on our recent tour to Nagano for some winter sightseeing. She and Sydney were travel champs on the five and a half hour bus ride to get there. They snacked and slept. And Sydney continually spoke about seeing snow as if it was the first time she'd said it, which surprisingly didn't get old to the people around her, given her enthusiasm.

Our first stop was Zenkoji temple, which was founded before Buddhism split into different sects within Japan and, therefore, is open to all believers. It is a very popular temple to visit for this reason as well as due to the "mysteries" of the temple. On the temple grounds there is a hidden buddha, (which was hidden due to vandalism and has never been revealed since) and a replica of the hidden buddha, which is only revealed every 6 years. This April will be the next unveiling of the replica hidden buddha, and most of the 7 million people that visit per year will try to come for the two months it is on display.

Another fun mysterious aspect of Zenkoji temple is the corridor under the inner chamber into which visitors may descend--in complete darkness--to try to feel their way to a metal key hanging on the wall, in order to gain enlightenment. I'm pretty sure asking your husband to use his cell phone flashlight to find your way negates the enlightment attained by touching the key, since I don't feel any different.

Zenkoji's more recent claim to fame is that during the 1998 winter Olympics in Nagano, it was the Zenkoji temple bell that was broadcast throughout the city as the ceremonial start to the games.

After a brief stop at the Hokusai museum, (during which--shocker--we had to coerce Sydney to come inside away from the snow), we made ourselves at home quickly at the Yudanaka View Hotel, now our favorite ryokan in Japan by far!

Surprisingly, we were the first American tour group to visit this ryokan, so perhaps they went above and beyond. In fact, a Japanese camera crew came to the hotel to interview us, since they were doing a story on how foreign tourists have been visiting Nagano and the snow monkey park in record numbers.

The service was excellent and accomodating even for small children. Several staff members spoke fluent English, which made it easy. The food was the best Japanese kaiseki we've had. After dinner there was a special taiko drum performance. And the onsen were picturesque and fantastic, and this was the first time we've been given child-size yukata and slippers for the girls. They even presented us with two adult yakata to take home.

In the morning we enjoyed an early relaxing soak in the private rooftop onsen and a traditional Japanese breakfast. We were hiking in the snow within ten minutes of departing the hotel. It was a little steep in the beginning, and then it leveled off to a gradual slope for 35 minutes to the monkey park. Although with the extra weight of Miranda on my back, I was working hard enough that I didn't feel the cold.

Once Sydney was free, of course she was most interested in playing in the snow. She paused only for a moment when she noticed the monkeys and exclaimed in sheer joy, "The monkeys are taking a bath!" Then she went back to digging in the snow alongside the monkeys. Monkey see, monkey do.

After we watched the human-like behaviors of the monkeys for quite a while, we allowed extra time back at the bus for building a real snowman--thanks to Daddy for building it and Mommy for providing the carrot nose. "But we don't have a black hat with a flower, like Frosty," Sydney told us. Miranda just eyed the carrot nose. It was lunchtime, after all.

Picturesque Matsumoto Castle was the final stop on the tour, which involved a little more hiking up narrow steep stairways. Then we boarded the bus for our long drive home, during which Miranda cried on and off for the last three hours...

Yes, Miranda put the M in MWR, indeed, this time lowering it. She was tired and wanted to sleep in her own comfy bed. Can't really blame her for that. Turns out she's about as fond of futon as Brian and I are. But we're with the monkeys on the onsen.

A Traditional Japanese New Year Celebration

This January we finally enjoyed our first traditional Japanese New Year Celebration, complete with a taiko drum performance and mochi pounding.

It was a cultural event hosted by a local chapter of Ikebana International, of which many Americans are members. The setting was very historic--the private residence of a Buddhist monk on the grounds of the Great Daihatsu (the Great Budda). Anyone who comes to visit us has visted the Great Budda. Here Sydney and her friend Zelig hold what might as well be the "golden tickets" to the Great Budda, as we visit for maybe the seventh time in 2 1/2 short years.

This impressive private home accomodated more than 150 guests. We all sat (on comfortable stools) in the large, open tatami room, which had large glass doors to the lawn and garden area, where the taiko drummers performed.

It was somewhat difficult to see from the back (where we like to sit with our two antsy children), so Sydney, Zelig and several other kids were ushered by the hostess up front for a better view.

Sydney really enjoyed the drum performance...until the New Year dragon emerged, at which point she retreated away from the open windows. Shortly after, she called out to Zelig, who had his legs dangling out the window, fearing he might fall down to the dragon.

Then it was time for the mochi pounding, a traditional Japanese New Year ritual, where friends and family take turns with the kure (hammer) to pound cooked sticky rice until it turns into mochi. At New Year's, it is usually shaped into a chewy, sweet ball with a nutty sweet soybean powder coating called kinako. Here our friends Nicole and Kathleen give it a go.

After the ceremonies, Brian contained the girls while I gathered our Japanese bento box lunches and mikan. It's late, so Miranda is so hungry she chews on her hands while Sydney is happy with her blanket.

After a full day, we made our way back to Yokosuka by train--with our trash still in hand. Believe it or not, this is a typical Japanese experience in and of itself.

Miranda's a Combi Model!

Last September Miranda and I took the train to Tokyo for her turn in the limelight. Now that it's January, the Combi-Mini catalog in which she is pictured is finally available! She is sporting some fashionable ensembles from three Combi-Mini clothing lines. To sum up, she was less than cooperative--as she usually is for the camera, I have only since realized, which is the main reason for the "collage Christmas card" approach this year. But they were able to get a few good ones out of her (despite the weird outfits).

This was my favorite outfit she wore. Although I can't say I'll rush out to buy it now that it's available. It's a bit different by American standards, with the plaid shorts and unusual pairings, but I've come to appeciate Japanese "higher" fashion (read: virtually no pink) for babies. (Miranda's photo is at middle right.)


"Photogenic Ladies." Well, they printed it, but I have to agree! I'm glad to see it was not just her mother who thought so. (Miranda's photo is at lower left.)




I'm not sure how many clothes this one of Miranda will sell, between the name of the clothing line ("ribbon casket"), the outfit itself (black onesie with weird white hat), and Miranda's expression (pure annoyance). We'll chalk this one up to a true Japanese modeling experience. (Miranda's photo is at top left.)

My First Happy Bag

Gotta love "After Christmas" shopping in Japan. Many stores sell mystery bags of merchandise on clearance, which you purchase without seeing what's inside. It's so bold, a gamble really--even the nonshopper can get a thrill buying a surprise "happy bag"! I can only assume that's why it's called a "happy bag." And why I felt so happy buying it. (Or maybe my sometimes silly friend Kathleen had something to do with that.)

Every time I've see one of these bags on display, I can't help but think the bag surely must give some hint at its contents, if only I could read Japanese. Nonetheless, I bought a "happy bag" this week. I guess you could say my curiousity got the best of me. In fact, it was quite impulsive. Even daring of me, you might think, if you know me. (For those who don't, I'm not impulsive and I really don't like knowing about surprises in advance of their actual unveiling. I hate the suspense of "I have a surprise for you!") But lest you think I'm getting crazy in my old age, I should tell you I bought a "happy bag" at a sock store.

What's inside? You guessed it, socks. I could handle the remaining (minimal) uncertainty involved in this purchase--mere matters of number, gender-appropriateness, color and style. And of course, I didn't really worry about size--I'm a 6 1/2 and in Japan, after all.

But what made this "happy bag" impossible to resist was Kathleen's impulsive offer to split it with me. So, for a measly $5, we each got 4 decent pairs of socks and have experienced yet another unique part of Japanese culture together. That's "happiness" that will most certainly last longer than the socks inside. So, well worth it.

Coming of Age Day

The Norwood and Watts women palled around Kamakura yesterday, on Coming of Age Day, a Japanese National holiday on the second Monday in January. Young women turning age 20 during the current school year (April 2008-March 2009) don beautiful, showy kimono with extra long sleeves in celebration of reaching adulthood. They usually attend governmental ceremonies in the morning and attend parties with family and friends in the evenings.



We had fun seeing all the young women playing "dress up" and then enjoyed feeding the ducks and running around, as you can see...

Hey! It's "Coming of Age" day, Julia--I think they're talking about us.

First, we have to lose the strollers. This is much better, isn't it?!

Now while you hang with the big girls...

I'm going to venture out on my own into the crowds. Or at least try repeatedly, since my mom keeps stopping me.

Snow Monkey Display














I just couldn't stand that I didn't have a photo of this cute three-dimentional display...so here you go. Of course you will find bath salts and handwarmers near this snow monkey display. But we'll both have to wait 10 more days for a photo of the real things. I'm pretty sure they won't be sporting towels on their head. But nothing surprises me in Japan.

Now I've Seen It All (While Shopping at Homes)

But I didn't have my camera with me. So you'll have to settle for reading about it.

While playing at the Livin park today with our friends Mel and Jocelyn, we escaped the cold inside the nearby store, Homes. Miranda's blue lips reminded us that we should pick up some handwarmers for our separate upcoming trips to Nagano to see the famous Japanese Snow Monkey Park.

Well, shopping in a Japanese store is unique in two key ways. The first being that since you can't read anything (or clearly ask anyone for help), you can only hope there are pictures on the product for which you are searching--which helps both in identifying the product AND, most importantly, in figuring out how to use the product.

After three years of this pictorial shopping, you actually begin to think much like a merchandiser--wading through aisles, homing in on like products, surveying your way from one similar product to the next even more similar product. It's like a good old game of "hot and cold." Only no one's telling you you're getting "hot" or "cold"; you have to figure it out yourself. As politically incorrect as it is, I've come to think of this as the Braille method of shopping in a foreign country.

I must be getting really good at this, since I noticed our first clue for finding the handwarmers-- the plastic display of snow monkeys swimning in a Japanese hot spring, just as you'd see at the Snow Monkey Park! (This is the first photo I would've captured for you. But instead you can check out this website for a real live webcam of the monkeys in the hot springs!) So, in record time, shopping experts that we are now, we found the Japanese handwarmers. Around the corner on the same aisle as the snow monkey display. Ahhhh so! And then we couldn't stop ourselves; around the next corner we found the soft, cute animal pouches for attaching the handwarmers to your children's coats. (If a snow monkey, Hello Kitty, or Anpanman pouch existed, I would've bought one for myself.)

The second unique thing I've observed about shopping in a Japanese store was that people bring their pets with them. This isn't PetSmart. This is a regular store. And today the second thing I wanted to capture on my camera that wasn't with me was a woman with her "frou frou" dog dangling from her core in a baby sling! In all honesty, I probably couldn't have gotten a good shot of that, since she came around a corner quickly, which wouldn't have allowed me time for the camera draw. In fact, she had passed me so quickly that she didn't see my unconcealed smile at the sight of her. But just thinking about it makes me smile again. So, who needs a camera? Maybe you'll smile, too, just at the blog of it.

Drinking Dress Code

Japan is very fashionable, particularly in Tokyo. Women wear trendy high-heeled boots. Men carry a Louis Vuitton man purse.

Maybe that's why there's even a dress code for drinking this wine, given to me by one of my Japanese friends. My wardrobe could definitely use some sprucing up, although I undoubtedly will be wearing jeans when I pop this puppy open. Happy New Year!