The Cave Men...and Me

Last week Brian arranged for us to get a tour of the Japanese-made caves on the Naval base. When the father of one of his patients suggested the personalized tour, Brian invited two of his male co-workers and me to come along. The base is said to contain about 16 miles of these caves, although I can assure you we saw just a sampling in the hour that we were spelunking.

We were told to bring a flashlight, any flashlight, apparently because the bright battery-operated lantern that our guide carried lasted only 30 minutes. With Brian in his headlamp, and I with our small, shake-up, battery-free flashlight, we were quite the pair. As if in tune with a subliminal request to be unique in our flashlight choices, our friend Doug brought a tiny maglight. (Joel didn't bring one at all, which might also be considered a unique choice.)

Our tour guide, a Master Chief whose steel-enclosed office is built within the caves, has ventured down into the caves many times. He has even brought his young children exploring with him. So, we knew we were in good hands. Nevertheless, our novice guide was quick to point out how confusing and dangerous the caves could be. His unreassuring comments included:

• "To find our way back, we'll just follow this string someone laid out." (Right about then I wished I'd brought bread crumbs as backup. But I also thanked Brian for my "green" flashlight that would never die. )
• "I've never been this way...I don't think."
• "Oh, good, there's the chair...that means we turn left up here...unless someone moved the chair. That would be a cruel joke."
• "If you feel an earthquake, run...but I'm not sure which way the exit is."
  

I took it upon myself to be the string spotter once or twice. I felt I had to be the voice of reason (i.e., the woman), with a nervous, only half-kidding laugh, pointing out that there was no string in these parts we were navigating. But we always seemed to reunite with the string within minutes, so I was appeased...

Until we saw this Japanese centipede. No need to guess the reason the Japanese call them "Getcha-Getcha's." Yes, they are ugly and they bite.

But I was able to put all my fears aside enough to realize the caves were rather amazing. All 16 or so miles were man-chiseled into the hills of the base, starting around 1938 to protect against possible American attacks during World War II. Although much of the information about the caves' purposes is still classified, it is known that the cave system contained rails for moving heavy equipment, a hospital and a power substation. Then after the United States took over the base, the caves held the Navy hospital and several commands. They are now too dangerous due to the earthquake-induced rubble and lose electrical fixtures and are, therefore, closed to the public.

But on our private tour, we saw many interesting historical remnants of the caves features and can begin to speculate what they were for...such as the benches and gurneys that seem to have served as part of the hospital. Or the tall air shafts, complete with a hole in the ground of the cave that appeared to double as a well to catch rain water (see photo).

And there is even an apparent shrine that--judging from the candy offerings--remains in use by recent visitors to the caves.

So, alas, this candy proves we are not as special as we might have you believe. That is, others have seen what we have seen in these caves. And all have lived to tell. Except this poor creature:

(It might have been a tanuki who tripped over his unusually large testicles only to be gotten by a getcha getcha. But that's a blog entry for another day.)

Read this article for more information about the Caves.